Animal fibers will be blue and plant fibers green. Because these cookies are strictly necessary to deliver the website, refuseing them will have impact how our site functions. We provide you with a list of stored cookies on your computer in our domain so you can check what we stored. They were then removed, rinsed and washed. The fibres were then left to soak in the solution for about an hour. There are many sources of tannin that can be used with iron to create black and we used oak galls in one method and alder bark and twigs in the other. The solutions from the first two soakings give a second dye bath, which can be used either cool or heated as above. The main difference between mordanting animal fibres and vegetable fibres with symplocos leaves is the temperature at which the fibres are treated. You can read about our cookies and privacy settings in detail on our Privacy Policy Page. When the liquid has cooled to 50C, the dye vat is then made in the same way as described above for woad. Then allow the fibres to cool in the dye bath. We might have achieved stronger colours on all the fibres if we had been able to test the barks over a longer period of time. The vats each took about 1 hour to be ready for use. I slowly heated the mordant bath containing the wool to simmering point then held this temperature for about one hour. Printing with marigold flowers and gum arabic, Printing with marigold flowers and guar gum, Students applying cassava paste resist through metal stencils from Nigeria. ), Airing the dyed fibres from the tannin/iron dye bath (Photo by Ali Rabjohns), Tannin/iron complex on cotton fabric and yarn Left: oak galls+iron Right: alder bark & twigs+iron (Photo by Ali Rabjohns). The Bebali Foundation brings to this project a decade of experience in the fields of conservation, indigenous culture, and rural livelihoods, while its partnerships with the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew and the Indonesian Forestry Department, and its funding from the Ford Foundation bring world class scientific rigor and accountability.”, I recently purchased some dried symplocos leaves from Couleur Garance in France and have begun to experiment with them. The vinegar should be added at the rate of about 15mls clear vinegar per litre of water. But this will always prompt you to accept/refuse cookies when revisiting our site. Samples of wool, silk, cotton and linen were dyed following the instructions on p139 Recipe no. The extract below is from the reference above. Please be aware that this might heavily reduce the functionality and appearance of our site. However, without experimenting further and conducting fastness tests, I cannot be sure that the colours achieved from woad leaves by this method would be as fast as those achieved by the more conventional methods. Dyeing with fresh Japanese Indigo leaves (after Fischer and Yoshioka) This method requires only white vinegar and water. Then add the fibres, bring the dye liquid up to simmering point and simmer gently for 30 to 45 minutes. The fibres were added and simmered in the solution for about an hour, then left to cool for a while. Alder cones (top) and Knopper oak galls (Photo by Liz Miller), Knopper galls develop as a chemically induced distortion of growing acorns on pedunculate oak trees (Quercus robur), caused by the Andricus quercuscalicis gall wasp, which lays eggs in buds. After stirring, the paste was shared into ¼ kg in different bowls and mordant (caustic soda) which was considered most appropriate in this study was administered. The dyed fibres were added to this solution and allowed to steep until they had achieved a suitable depth of colour. So I shall continue to add the ingredients in what seems to me to be the most logical order: 1-2-3. Symplocos leaves can be used on all fibres; so far I have only used them on wool and I am pleased with the results. I also added three further samples – two mordanted with different sources of tannin – blackberry leaves and shoots and oak galls – and one treated with rhubarb leaf solution. Finally, add a small amount of fibres to the liquid and leave them overnight to exhaust any remaining dye potential, then rinse and air them. We fully respect if you want to refuse cookies but to avoid asking you again and again kindly allow us to store a cookie for that. (Note: The actual blue colours are rather greyer in tone than they appear in the photo.) When dyeing black using the tannin/iron complex the fibres must be alternately dyed then aired, in order for the depth of colour to develop. The weld dye bath was prepared by simmering 100% weld to extract the colour. However, I was able to harvest only a few leaves for this experiment, so I intend to try it again next year earlier in the growing season and see whether a higher percentage of younger leaves gives different results. This is something I learned from Helen Melvin of Fiery Felts and it certainly results in deeper browns, so many thanks to Helen for the tip. Unsurprisingly, it didn’t. Click to enable/disable Google reCaptcha. Posted in Cooking | Leave a Comment. This meant that the fibres were in the dye pot for longer than is the case if the colour is extracted first. When the dye bath was getting cool, heat was again applied until a simmer was reached. I meant to toss all of my frozen and dried leaves but couldn't quite bring myself to do it. Before you start, fill some plastic bottles with water and put them in the fridge to cool overnight. Luckily, one of the students brought some of her own Japanese indigo leaves and we tried two methods – the usual vat method and the water and vinegar method. Strain liquid then add fabric. When the dye liquid had been strained off and the fibres added, the temperature of the dye bath was kept just below simmering point to achieve clearer colours. Check to enable permanent hiding of message bar and refuse all cookies if you do not opt in. It didn't work out. (Note that this differs from the woad method in that boiling water is not poured over the leaves, but they are first covered with cool to warm water and then heated gradually.) They were left to cool in the dye bath, then rinsed and washed. They do have a sheltered, fairly sunny spot in my garden and their border is raised a couple of inches out of the wet clay with plenty of sheep manure dug in.